Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1540685
The Dynamo Room: Where the City Still Arrives W alking into The Dynamo Room, you feel an uncanny sense that this place has quietly existed in the city's collective memory for decades. In New York, where restaurants often clamor to be loud and new, The Dynamo Room — the latest venture from Sunday Hospitality (Sunday in Brooklyn, the restaurant program at Hotel Chelsea) — arrives with quiet confidence and old-school poise. Situated in the Penn 2 tower, at the heart of the Penn District's ambitious reinvention, the restaurant strikes a balance between homage and innovation. Velvet banquettes and a gleaming oyster bar nod to Manhattan's grand steakhouse traditions, while the seasonal menu pairs classic staples with unexpected delights. Designed by Evidence of Things with Le Veau d'Or: The Return ART OF THE NEW YORK TABLE By Steven Hempel and Michelle Aviña In a city that thrives on spectacle, these new restaurants prove that true power often speaks softly. From a steakhouse that channels Old New York to a sultry underground sushi den pulsing with Tokyo cool, these destinations redefine what it means to be effortlessly chic. reverence and restraint, vaulted ceilings recall Old Penn Station's vanished grandeur and steel railings and terracotta floors ground the space in New York's industrial past. Above the bar, a kinetic sculpture by Vincent Leroy fractures light like a constellation, inviting moments of pause amid urban chaos. Led by chefs Jaime Young and Derek Boccagno, the kitchen honors tradition without feeling bound by it. Cocktails arrive with thoughtful precision, and the desserts are like reimagined memories. The Dynamo Room's true luxury is its mood. A place w h e r e t i m e slows — a gift in a city that rarely lets you catch y o u r b r e a t h . thedynamoroom. com. L e Veau d'Or, a beloved U p p e r E a s t S i d e institution since 1937, has been revived with reverence and polish by Frenchette founders Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson. Once favored by Jackie O and Orson Welles, the wood-paneled eatery returns with bright red banquettes, crisp white tablecloths, and playful calf-shaped planters — a nod to its name (a pun meaning "the calf sleeps"). The kitchen, led by Charles Izenstein, Jeff Teller, and company pastry chef Michelle Palazzo, honors classical French dining with modern technique. The $125 set menu pairs with an all-French, organic wine list that speaks softly but confidently. The restoration is reverent but not overbearing. The iconic checked floors return. The red banquettes glow brighter. The atmosphere strikes a balance between nostalgia and renewed energy: a softly buzzing dining room filled with an elegant crowd that bridges generations. The space feels both familiar yet new, inviting longtime regulars and newcomers alike to linger over French classics with a contemporary hand. While the new Le Veau d'Or shines with added glamour and a younger, buzzier crowd, it remains rooted in warmth and elegance — an antidote to today's maximalist dining scene. The calf may no longer be sleeping, but it's certainly dreaming anew. lvdnyc.com. GENTL + HYERS GENTL + HYERS Chicken Fricassée . Le Veau d'Or . The Dynamo Room interiors Chocolate ganache tart with caviar Ribeye for 2

