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of pearl couscous ($26), as well as seared fresh sea scallops ($30) and a hearty roasted pork chop with fennel apple sauce ($26). No trattoria would be complete without a pasta dish — or three. Give the fire-roasted lobster spun between strands of black squid ink tagliatelle ($26) a whirl. Desserts, made in house, include pastry chef Alyssa Dole's must- try buttermilk panna cotta, which is completely devoid of the usual gelatinous texture; instead, a smooth, cool, creamy custard swims in a shallow pool of orange caramel sauce ($10). Service is polished and eager to please. Emmaline serves continuously from lunch to dinner, with late-night cocktails and bites, brunch on weekends, and afternoon tea. Emmaline, 3210 W. Dallas St., 713.523.3210, dineemmaline.com. Top: Truth and Oak cocktail with grappa, Torino sweet vermouth, cherry bark, vanilla, and Italian black cherry. Above: Custom steel windows and doors mimic a grand l'orangerie. Clockwise from top: A sweet wood-paneled room. Emmaline's calling card. Heirloom crudite. Buttermilk panna cotta winter berries with olive oil. Winter grains and greens with leafy greens, farro, seasonal squash, goat cheese, pomegranate, and sherry vinaigrette. Fontina fondue with seasonal complements.