PaperCity Magazine

February 2020- Houston

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THE PATH OF A C a r t i e r 's m o s t legendary creative signature — the wild and sensual panther — has been made contemporary, in a new collection of watches, rings, necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. La Panthère dates back to the impeccably stylish Jeanne Toussaint, the Cartier muse and later artistic director of jewelry (from 1933 until the '70s), who was nicknamed La Panthère by Louis Cartier due to her wild spirit and fi erce determination. In 1914, a panther's pattern fi rst appeared in onyx and diamonds on a ladies' wristwatch, and an illustration by George Barbier was commissioned called Lady with a Panther for an invitation to a jewelry exhibition. But it was the visionary Toussaint who, in 1935 dared to fl esh out the panther in three dimensions, resulting in the s u r p r i s i n g a n d elegant icon. Soon a generation of bold women including Daisy Fellowes, María Félix, and the Duchess of Windsor embraced La Panthère. A panther brooch in yellow gold and black diamonds was created for the Duchess in 1948, marking the first time the feline's form was represented in its entirety. The iconic Panthère de Cartier ring in yellow gold, black lacquer, peridots, and onyx debuted in 2005 — the fi rst appearance of the stylized, faceted 21st century-feline. The Panthère universe includes numerous indomitable designs a n d i t e r a t i o n s across history, each intended to spark energy, sensuality, a n d s t re n g t h . At the Cartier boutique. Anne Lee Phillips PANTHER Vintage photos, clockwise from top: Jeanne Toussaint, 1920. Jeanne Toussaint, towards the end of the 1950s. Panthère clip brooch, sold to the Duchess of Windsor, 1949. Jeanne Toussaint, 1967. Cartier Panthère watch with 18K gold case and bracelet, brilliant-cut diamonds, and tsavorite. Top: Cartier La Panthère ring in 18K rose gold, emeralds, onyx, diamonds $9,850.

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