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92 Mucho caliente W hen Levi Goode — the trustee of his late father Jim Goode's fabled restaurant empire — makes a move, he goes big. But in the case of his new Memorial-area Goode Co. Seafood eatery, he didn't go far: he built an 8,000-square-foot restaurant next door to the existing Goode co. Building upon a seafood legacy that started 33 years ago when the original Goode co. Seafood was launched in a charming old railway car on Westpark at Kirby, levi (along with Gin Design Group and Studio Red Architecture) has kept the endearing memories of a life spent oystering with the family in Port aransas. awash in a sea of blue hues, the wide-open space has a bar shaped like a fishing boat. Sepia-toned photos compiled by photographer Doc McGregor depict a slice of life captured decades ago, when tarpon fishing along the Gulf coast made the town of Port aransas renowned. loyalists will find many of their favorites, including campechana de mariscos, the spicy, chilly seafood app that overflows in a sundae coupe, to be scooped up with tortilla chips — a recipe inspired by the beach-side treat levi's father loved as a child ($16 - $17). Dishes exclusive to this location include two seafood towers groaning with oysters, jumbo shrimp, marinated blue crab claws, jumbo lump ravigote, and campechana: the Pearl (serves two to three, $65) and Grand Prize (serves four to six, $125). new starters include shrimp etouffée hand pies (warm empanada-like pouches filled with the classic creole and cajun shrimp dish, $8) and fried oyster Blt slider ($6). Goode Co. Seafood, 10201 Katy Freeway, 713.464.7933, goodecompany.com. GooDe neWS: there'S a ShininG neW GooDe coMPany SeafooD MeMorial i t's surprising that the idea of cross-pollinating Southern smoked barbecue-style meats with Mexican flavors hasn't been more pervasive in texas. But the spicy, smoky, meat-focused trend is certainly picking up heat. Michael Sambrooks jumped on board when the opportunity arose to open a new concept near his popular barbecue joint the Pit room in the Montrose area. Granted, from all appearances, Candente resembles other tex-Mex eateries that dot our cityscape, from the piped-in mariachi music to the colorful floor-to-ceiling Day of the Dead mural. But inside the open kitchen, the custom Josper oven is connected to a wood-burning grill, and on the menu, two beloved texas cuisines meld. here, nachos are topped with a half-pound of smoked brisket, refried beans, cheddar cheese, pickled red onion, barbecue sauce, cilantro, crema, and salsa roja ($20). Don't miss the spicy ceviches, available as a trio that includes campechana with layers of smoked mussels, shrimp, octopus, and avocado in a piquant Mexican cocktail sauce ($18). each ceviche comes with a side of diced peppers or hot pepper sauce to inch up the heat index. the chicken flauta also gets a whiff of the mesquite ($12), and the tampiqueña tops a nine-ounce niman ranch prime-grade rib-eye with two gooey cheese enchiladas (the depth of the gravy alone could sell this dish) and grilled onions sizzling in chile lime butter ($37). Behind the bar, beverage director David Maness uses 100 percent agave espolon tequila as the base for his margaritas, which he edges with sea salt. he offers a fun take on grapefruit juice-tinged Paloma with a splash of aperol, while dark rum tops the piña colada for a warming feel. open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, with happy hour Monday through friday. Candente, 4306 Yoakum Blvd., 346.867.1156, candentehtx.com. Goode Co. Seafood in Memorial (continued from page 90) Candente A Tex-Mex tradition