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PaperCity_Houston_June_July_August_2020

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42 Sheesh Mahal, or Palace of Mirrors. More than 200,000 pieces of hand-cut mirror create a dazzling mosaic, offset by chandeliers and an Empire-inspired ceiling. Velvet-covered banquettes and chairs cozy up to the tables. Other areas include The Diwan Lounge, reminiscent of the courtyards of traditional Indian homes of the wealthy; The Agnan, the main dining room flanked by arches; the light and airy Shadow Room, dedicated to 12-course tasting menus; and a charming outdoor lounge with daybeds romantically draped in linen with bolstered cushions, as well as traditional bar seating beneath ceiling fans. The focal point of the restaurant is the Traveler's Room, which emulates a market with 16-foot carved wooden colonnades, a 25-foot-long Dhokra wall with brass castings of folk motifs, and a window into the kitchen, framed by a brass sculpture that incorporates a massive rack of pots, pans, and utensils. Overlooking the scene is the restaurant's namesake: the 14-foot sculpture of Musaafer. "I think I love this man as much as my husband," Mithu says. Throughout each of the dining settings, there's a celebration of India's vibrant culinary traditions. "The experience of the journey, in terms of the design, echoes the experience of the journey in terms of the food, because we've stressed, even in our à la carte menu, that the dishes are regional because Indian cuisine is very, very different depending on which region it is coming from," Mithu says. "We really wanted to showcase and highlight each and every region, because it is phenomenal. So, the same way with the menu. If it's 12 courses, it's going to be completely contrasting in taste and flavor because that's how food is in India." The menu is à la carte at present; the full complement of courses is dependent on the path of the coronavirus pandemic. Musaafer chef Mayank Istwal made the 100-day journey across India's 29 states with the Maliks. Current highlights on his menu include traditional Indian street food, Paani Poori, the hollow shells filled with fresh ceviche with five dipping-sauces; Tuna Chaat with avocado, tamarind, and house- made cream cheese; Nalli Nihari (lamb shank) s e r v e d o v e r s a f f ro n cauliflower risotto and pepper gremolata; and t h e B u t t e r C h i c k e n experience, served three ways with centrifuged a n d c l e a r c l a r i f i e d tomato sauce. T h e n t h e re 's t h e charming bartender, mixologist Himanshu Desai, a winner in the global Remy Martin Talent Academy competition, who has an expertise in combining cutting-edge technology and ingredients indigenous to India. The Camac Street margarita, for example, is tequila blended with a five-spice cordial that's been cooked in honey syrup, and the glass lined with tahini and Indian red salt. Rounding out the Musaafer team are sommelier Rebecca Beaman, previously beverage director at the Inn at Dos Brisas, and Sebastien Laval, most recently general manager at River Oaks District's MAD. Musaafer, The Galleria, 713.242.8087, musaaferhouston.com. The Traveler's Room with 16-foot carved wooden colonnades The Dhokra wall with brass castings Main bar Hand-hammered tin panels in the main bar Diwan Lounge

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