PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Dallas May 2021

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TWO BEAUTIFUL NEW RESTAURANTS TO LOVE FRENCH-INDIAN ÂME AND KESSAKU ALREADY HAVE WAIT-LIST SITUATIONS FOR A RESERVATION. GET ON THEM PRONTO. BY BILLY FONG B anish all preconceptions of a French restaurant — t h a t p o m p o u s maître d', those Toulouse Lautrec prints — when you enter Âme, the new French- Indian restaurant in the Bishop Arts neighborhood. Here, a deep-green wall with a simple bar welcomes you for a drink before you adjourn to the main dining room — an intimate space where artwork of anthropomorphic parrots mimic what might be a Goya canvas of aristocracy. The mosaic floor tile and host stand pay homage to the building's roots and its former occupant, Hattie›s. Romance- inducing alcoves are lined with Christian LaCroix's festive Maison de Jeu wallpaper, as well as antique mirrors positioned for clandestine people-watching. Âme ("soul" in French) is the creation of mother-daughter duo Afifa and Sabrina Nayeb. Trained at Le Cordon Bleu, chef Afifa combines French technique with traditional Indian recipes to create dishes that are almost indescribable. We asked her how she devised the menu and she responded, "For me, it was a labor of love. We went through many iterations. Of course, this is a chef-driven concept, so some spices and garnishing may change day to day depending on local produce availability and season. I wanted to create a menu that Dallas hasn't seen before, but that is beautiful not just in presentation but flavor as well." The starring role on a recent visit went to the Tandoori fish curry. A delicate cut of sea bass, unlike any we've tasted in quite some time, rested atop a sauce blended from green peas, lemongrass, leek purée, and dill — an exquisite layering of taste and texture. All items are à la carte, so place an order for naan puffs to soak up any remaining sauce on the plate. The emerald pilaf — rice cooked with spinach, kale, cilantro, parsley, and Serrano, garnished with delicately fried crispy onions — is no ordinary side. In fact, it could be the main course for any vegans in your party. End your evening below the oversized chandelier at the Elephant Bar, an elevated champagne and cocktail space tucked behind ro m a n t i c f l o o r- t o - c e i l i n g emerald velvet curtains. Âme, 418 N. Bishop, 214.782.9696, amerestaurantdallas.com. J'ADORE ÂME Anari chicken at Âme Gin & tonic at the Elephant Bar A cozy banquette 74

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