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D rive down Allen Parkway, and you'll n o t i c e a w o v e n bronze-like art piece — dubbed The Bird's Nest — that serves as both Toca Madera's entry and an airy, cage-like portico where you can dine al fresco on a cool evening under a canopy of branches, Spanish moss, willow leaves, and wisteria vines. The restaurant was designed inside and out by Noble 33's in-house design firm, Monochrome; the result is bold and dramatic, with biophilic elements such as The Bird's Nest and lifelike trees that take root in the floor and extend branches upward. The dining room, seating 393, and separate bar area pulsate with By Laurann Claridge. Photography TJ Perez. an electric atmosphere, care of a bustling open kitchen and a cadre of live entertainment. Houston executive chef Christian Brennen oversees the kitchen, which leans on a larder of sustainably caught seafood and organic ingredients. One signature app is the crispy wonton tacos, which cradle A5 wagyu, wasabi, spring onions, and delicate micro shiso leaves (two per order, $34). Or order up Mariscos, an array of impeccably fresh chilled oysters, shrimp, king crab, and lobster tail on ice ($195/$325). I can attest that the smaller size can easily be shared among four people. While there are ample TOCA MADERA MEXICAN FLAVOR WITH A A NEW STEAKHOUSE Top: Ghostrider cocktail at Toca Madera. Australian Wagyu. selections to sate the fussiest pescatarians among us — don't miss the giant Mayan prawns, napped with a chipotle mezcal butter with charred Fresno chiles ($58). Toca Madera is billed as a Mexican steakhouse and delivers a variety of beef, from certified black angus petite filet ($52 for six ounces) to prime cuts culled from Missouri's Creekstone Farms and Mishima reserve American Wagyu. When I dined, a neighboring table of four gentlemen ordered the Flintstones-size 40-ounce flaming tomahawk ($325); the mighty cut was wheeled to their table ablaze, dangling from a hook, the flames licking the roasted salsa verde below. I went smaller with the olive Sanuki wagyu; the four delicate slices were brought on a guéridon equipped with a grill and cooked tableside, with sea salt and chimichurri sauce to season to taste (ounce, $52). And what's a steakhouse without the sides. Here, they range from truffle manchego fries ($29) and truffle mac and cheese ($18) to street corn ($14) and black beans ($9). A farm-to-glass mixology menu emphasizes fresh, seasonal ingredients while offering a good selection of tequila and mezcal. Desserts are extraordinarily well- crafted and include strawberry tres leches, the sweet vanilla cake imbibed with a cream anglaise ($20), and the mini Bundt-like brown butter cake, accompanied with bourbon toffee sauce, toasted feuilletine crumble berry sauce, and vanilla bean ice cream ($22). Toca Madera, The Pavilion at The Allen, 1755 Allen Parkway, tocamadera.com. 116