PaperCity Magazine

February 2019- Houston

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C ross the threshold at 1475 Texas Avenue into the new Irma's Southwest, and it feels like you're walking into a sleek steakhouse. The nearly 8,000-square-foot restaurant, with three rooms separated by 14-foot sliding iron-and-glass doors, is devoid of Mexican restaurant kitsch-like paper picado banners. Instead, Irma's is a neutral, sophisticated space on the ground floor of the luxury apartment building Catalyst Houston. Owners Louis and Patricia Galvan (he's the eldest son of Irma Galvan, who established her first namesake eatery 30 years ago) and partner Bruce Williams opened this bright new spot. But unlike the former incarnation of Irma's Southwest, where servers verbally walked you through dishes, the staff is getting used to a new concept: a printed menu. Select from small plates such as the chef's ceviche of the day (market price), and Irma's chunky guacamole ($10), then move on to the section that has gained them a following: Tejas exotic wild game (specifically axis deer and wild boar), taking the form of spicy barbacoa- style tacos, tamales, and enchiladas ($17 – $21). Rare as it might be to see sea bass ($45) and Atlantic salmon ($24) on a Tex-Mex menu, you'll find it here beside the standard tilapia ($21), and fish and shrimp tacos ($16). Of course, there are fajitas and in homage to the matriarch, Irma's Orginales combo plates, such as traditional enchiladas ($16), and chicken mole poblano ($21). Louis' son Jacob Gutierrez makes more than a margarita and has rolled out an extensive tequila program. Irma's Southwest, 1475 Texas Ave., 713.247.9651, irmassouthwest.com. IRMA'S STILL REIGNS NEW RESTAURANTS TO RESERVE NOUVEAU EATS SWEET OFFERINGS A s the proprietors say, "It all started with a simple craving for crêpes." Thirty-three-year-old Ivy League grad Ivan Chavez and his wife and partner, Allison Chavez, missed the crêpes he'd loved in Paris — warm, thin, pancake-like French street fare with a sweet or savory filling. That was seven years ago. Today, their casual concept, Sweet Paris, has expanded to six locations, including a new Highland Village Shopping Center flagship, with three more set to open this year. Rockwell Group sketched out the flow of the Highland Village space, while Houston designer Chelsea Cunningham McDermott fashioned the charming interiors with ivory Venetian plaster walls, gray-and-white woven bistro-style chairs, marble-topped tables, tufted banquettes, and hedges of faux boxwood and phalaenopsis orchids (care of David Brown Flowers). Next, the Chavezes lured general manager Jonathan Youmans to manage the high-profile new location and to expand the wine offerings — which are mostly French. Located in the former Kate Spade space on a quiet side street of Highland Village, the patio, with umbrellas and bistro tables, is relatively car free. Queue up while you ponder the menu of savory crêpes such as chicken carbonara served with mozzarella, parmesan, bacon, and carbonara sauce ($9.95) and truffled caprese with mozzarella, basil-infused cherry tomatoes, and truffle oil ($8.25). Breakfast crêpes are served until 3 pm daily, including croque madame with scrambled eggs, gruyère, smoked ham, and béchamel sauce ($9.50). If you're not in the mood for crêpes, waffles, paninis, and salads fill out the menu. But few can resist the sweet crêpes — especially the Bonne Maman with four-berry jam and sweet cream ($6.95). Sweet Paris, Highland Village, 2701 Drexel Dr., 346.867.1157, sweetparis.com. Allison Chavez Homemade tamales JENN DUNCAN JULIE SOEFER SHANNON O'HARE Turkey, grapes, and brie crêpe BY LAURANN CLARIDGE.

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