Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/1225776
I landed at the quaint Querétaro International Airport at noon — San Miguel doesn't have its own, so you must fly into either Querétaro or Guanajuato International Airport near León. Both are about an hour's drive away, but I grabbed a shuttle instead of a rental car, to soak in the small towns and miles of desert tumbleweeds along the way. San Miguel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a hilly, high-altitude city, and I wanted a hotel that was close to the action with oodles of charm. Casa Hoyos, a boutique hotel with only 16 guestrooms, fits the bill with its contemporary Art Deco style and location in the city center, within walking distance of must-see sites such as El Jardin and Parroquia of San Miguel Arcángel. After checking in, there's just enough time to spruce up for an impromptu cocktail party thrown by Dallas design guru Michelle Nussbaumer, who keeps a home in San Miguel and makes frequent visits to entertain. Her hacienda is a string of buildings connected by patios and loggias. It was a 10-year labor of love, and the interiors and gardens are so incredibly chic that Architectural Digest ran a feature on it last year. The divine Nussbaumer, as glamorous as Anita Ekberg frolicking in a fountain and wearing one of her signature caftans, whispers in my ear: I need to make my way to some of her favorite stores, many of which can be found in a unique compound of restaurants and retail known as Dôce 18 Concept House. Then it's off to Casa Dragones' kickoff cocktail party on the rooftop of the Rosewood San Miguel de Allende, at the fringe of the city center. Like many boutique properties here, this is a small outpost for the luxury chain with only 67 rooms. The open-air terrace with sweeping views of the city is available to hotel guests or anyone in need of a cocktail. On hand this night are face painters to get us party-goers ready for a parade through the city. At dinner, I'm fortunate to be with some of the Dallas folks in town — Cindy and Howard Rachofsky, Brian Bolke and Faisal Halum, and Suzanne Droese — as well as some fabulous Angelenos, including the charming Andrew Rhoda and gorgeous Priyanka Khanna. We dine at The Garage Dos Casas, an event space with slightly Brutalist interiors, like what a Rick Owens restaurant might look like. Our sumptuous meal, cooked by Olivier Deboise, executive chef at One&Only Resorts, begins with crab in habañero mayonnaise and continues with creamy polenta with wild mushrooms, braised pork jowl in chile de arbol broth, and more. The tropical dessert with guava, soursop, yuzu, and nougatine makes a fine — and very late —finish with a sip of Casa Dragones tequila. Alas, I had intended to go to sleep early to make a full day of Saturday, but an after-party on the rooftop of Casa Hoyos is in full swing, and I can't resist. FRIDAY Casa Hoyos La Casa Dragones Casa Hoyos Casa Armida (continued from page 98) (continued on page 102)