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Each course is plant-based with peak-of season ingredients sourced from San Miguel and the floating farms called chinampas in Xochimilco, where farming is done using techniques dating to the Aztecs. Elena Reygadas, known for her Italian-influenced cooking at the lovely Rosetta in Mexico City, oversees the pan de miento and the mole de hoja santa. Enrique Olvera, the originator of modern Mexican cuisine at Pujol in Mexico City, and Daniela Soto-Innes, the James Beard Award-winning chef at Cosme in New York City, labored over the other courses, including tamal de calabaza, barbacoa de hongos, and a raspado de mandarina dessert. Revelers, in Gucci and Valentino, wear traditional Day of the Dead floral headdresses, handmade masks, and La Calavera Catrina makeup. Among them are designers Naeem Khan, Héctor Esrawe, and Carla Fernández; artists Gabriel Orozco, Danh Vo, and Pedro Reyes; Academy Award-winning writer Stephen Gaghan; and Bob Pittman, Casa Dragones co-founder and CEO of iHeartMedia. After dinner, the scene transforms to an arena concert as González Nieves welcomes a favorite Mexico City band, Tropikal Forever, whose playlist ranges from Radiohead to The Rolling Stones. Dancing carries on through the wee hours, though I suspect you already knew that. A nother noon start, this time for lunch at Quince with the R a c h o f s k y s a n d Brian Bolke. The rooftop restaurant has stellar views of San Miguel and seafood that's legendary among locals and has garnered international acclaim as well. Then it's on to my favorite pastime, shopping. Home design shops, artisan crafts, exquisitely tailored clothing — San Miguel is a shopper's paradise. We check out Rachel Horn Interiors, Mixta, and Casa Armida for gorgeous pillows made by artisans famed for their textile techniques. We browse Juana Cata, KM33, and Méson Hidalgo for apparel from Mexican designer Carla Fernández, serapes in every color of the rainbow, and silver jewelry. But my favorite shop is Recreo San Miguel, owned by expats Lisa and Michael Coleman. Their boutique, in a 250-year- old building just a block from the main square, is a minimal, modern showplace that deftly combines shades of white and cool gray. The men's and women's clothing, dramatic leather capes and gauzy day dresses, are constructed in San Miguel. Then it's back to Casa Hoyos for a massage in the hotel spa — the remedy to a long afternoon walking the city's cobblestone streets. The evening begins with cocktails (but of course) at La Casa Dragones — a 17th-century former stable, now transformed into the home of Tequila Casa Dragones. Securing a visit is as easy as reaching out to the brand's concierge team. Or make your way to the Casa Dragones Tasting Room, a chic six-seat destination for sipping craft cocktails, located in the Dôce 18 compound. My favorite is the spruce and tequila spritz, made from Casa Dragones Blanco, spruce tip cordial, Cocchi Americano, and fresh lemon. After a few sips, I'm ready for the main event: a grand party at the historic Plaza de Toros, a 16th- century bullfighting ring transformed with thousands of vibrant orange flowers, a 10-piece mariachi band, two larger-than-life mojiganga puppets, and a singer on horseback. We ring though a tunnel, where a dramatic dinner is set beneath a canopy of Mexican papier-mâché lanterns, with a menu cooked by some of the world's renowned chefs. SATURDAY SAN MIGUEL CHIC Casa Armida, Canal 16, Zona Centro. Casa Dragones Tasting Room, Dôce 18 Concept House, Relox 18, Zona Centro, casadragones.com. Casa Hoyos, 14 Mesones, Zona Centro, casahoyos.mx. Juana Cata, Recreo 7, Zona Centro. KM33, Calle del Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias 52, Zona Centro, km33official.com. La Casa Dragones, Recreo 16, Zona Centro, casadragones.com. Méson Hidalgo, Hidalgo 19, Zona Centro. Mixta, Pila Seca 3, Zona Centro, mixtasanmiguel. com. Quince, Cuna de Allende 15, quincerooftop.com. Rachel Horn Interiors, Fabrica Aurora Design Center, rachelhorn.com. Recreo San Miguel, Calle Recreo 26, Zona Centro, recreosanmiguel.com. Rosewood San Miguel de Allende, Nemesio Diez 11, Zona Centro, rosewoodhotels.com. 102 Rosewood San Miguel de Allende Recreo San Miguel Méson Hidalgo (continued from page 100)