PaperCity Magazine

PaperCity Dallas September 2023

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born designer Jil Sander) is apropos for an evening out, and a cashmere Tom Ford sweater with white Frame jeans for your days of exploring. Berlin also has a relatively easy subway system to figure out, so pack some comfortable Prada sneakers or Dior sandals for trekking about. Street style is most definitely a thing in Berlin. Since evenings, however, are meant for sky-high Saint Laurent tribute heels and slinky frocks, call an Uber after dark. You'll generally be picked up by a Prius or Volkswagen — but the ride might feel like a scene from a Jason Bourne movie, with quick starts and lots of swinging through narrow, circuitous city streets. The music is often Euro disco pop or something reminiscent of the Beverly Hills Cop soundtrack — which, depending on your penchant for irony, may or may not seem fitting when you whip by the heroic Brandenburg Gate. Buckle up and savor the quirkiness of the moment. I overpacked, which kept me from doing much shopping, but as a dear friend back home in Dallas texted me, "You can always buy another suitcase." True, I thought — but only if I found something I desperately needed by an up-and-coming German designer who's still obscure in the U.S. Therefore, I'll leave you with this quote from the legendary Marlene Dietrich: "I still keep a suitcase in Berlin." I can only dream of a life that cosmopolitan … Where to Rest your Weary Head The Ritz-Carlton, Berlin: The stalwart brand of luxury accommodations doesn't disappoint with its Berlin outpost. Granted, the building isn't historic; it opened in 2004 but was designed as a tribute to Art Deco architecture. After a 40-million- euro renovation, it reopened in 2019 with interiors that harken back to the gilded golden cabaret days of the 1920s. Situated in the heart of the city at Potsdamer Platz and near Berlin's largest inner-city park, Tiergarten, the five-star hotel with white- glove service offers 303 guest rooms and suites. I was fortunate to find myself on the Ritz- Carlton Club Lounge level (10th floor) where there were meals and snacks provided throughout the day and access to a concierge who can handle check-in if there's a line in the ground floor lobby. The rooms are even spacious by most European standards. During my stay, I encountered a variety of fellow guests: Asians looking like they were prepared for luxury-shopping marathons (wink-wink, guess that's me), European businessmen in Hugo Boss suits wheeling and dealing contract negotiations, and couples enjoying a romantic getaway. I hoped I might encounter a modern-day equivalent of chanteuse Sally Bowles, dressed head- to-toe in black and belting out a number between sips of her martini at the in house lounge, The Curtain Club. ritzcarlton.com. Das Stue: Daniel Wingate suggested that I stay at least one night at this beyond- chic hotel. Off the major roads and directly adjacent to the Tiergarten, it felt more private than the Ritz and I was intrigued to find that famed Dutch avant-garde fashion house Viktor & Rolf had been part of the design process of the hotel. When I pulled up, I encountered sleek cars (quiet luxury vehicles, not gaudy sports models) with equally sleek drivers and passengers, and the valet wore a brocaded car coat instantly recognizable as Viktor & Rolf. I coveted that valet coat every time I saw it. Located in the embassy district, the heritage-protected building is the former Royal Danish Embassy built in the late 1930s. If you're a fan of the Epix series Berlin Outpost, you'll recognize it from one of the scenes of a clandestine meeting between a CIA agent and operative. Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola is responsible for the interplay of historic backdrop and contemporary furnishings. Here I found the most unique feature I've ever seen at a hotel: several racks of exquisite and intriguing fashions, adjacent to the entry desk. Was it a store for the Dutch designers that was so cool and under the radar that it needn't advertise itself? An art installation? The bartender that evening told me that the garments were curated by Viktor & Rolf — not only from their past collections, but from other designers they admire. Brilliant. If you find yourself staying at Das Stue and realize you need a latex corset for an evening at a notorious nightclub with a naughty reputation, they might have one you can borrow. To consider: 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin: 25hours-hotels.com. Hotel Adlon Kempinski Berlin: kempinski.com. Hotel de Rome, a Rocco Forte hotel: roccofortehotels.com. Schlosshotel Berlin by Patrick Hellmann: schlosshotelberlin.com. Waldorf Astoria Berlin: hiltonhotels.de. Ritz Carlton lobby Charlottenburg Museum Charlottenburg Palace Andreas Murkudis MATTHEW SHAW EFFIE GREB REINHARDT AND SOMMER THOMAS MEYER (Continued on page 162)

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