Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/562661
SUBVERSIVE MONOGRAM IT wasn't long after the invention of the alphabet that monograms were born — around 350 BC, first used on coins in ancient Greece and Rome. In the Middle Ages, artisans employed them to brand their work. But the Victorians were the ones who saw the monogram as a sign of prestige and began putting fanciful personalized emblems on everything from silver, cutlery and linens to stationery and furniture to represent the wealth of their house. Ever since, it has remained a favored symbol of the upper classes and was a natural fit for preppy culture, which is rooted in Ivy League style of the early 20th century. But monograms aren't limited to preps. Everyone loves a little self-obsessed lettering. THENEWNORMAL FOREVER TATS T attooing dates to at least Neolithic times and has been practiced worldwide ever since for religious, spiritual, military and artistic purposes. The symbolism and reception of this art has varied dramatically. In recent North American history, tattoos were typically considered taboo (even seemingly liberal businesses would make employees cover their ink — including Starbucks, until just last year). But adapters of the punk style readily assimilated this form of self- expression, and fashion brands have embraced it by allowing models to show their tattoos and creating tattoo-inspired clothing. Charlotte Olympia's latest smoking slipper comes with 52 leather adhesive letters and icons to change up your daily logo. ABC flats $695, at Neiman Marcus. Models with tattoos are rampant in ad campaigns, editorials and on the runway. Catherine McNeil's tattoos are showcased in CR Fashion Book's Spring/Summer 2015 issue. Above right: The dragon, an ancient Chinese symbol for emperor, has historically been a popular tattoo. It also makes for an inspired china pattern. Mottahedeh Blue Dragon dinner plate $55, at Neiman Marcus. Right: Tattoo artist Joseph "JK5" Ari Aloi designed a second skin to be paired with traditional suiting for Comme des Garçons' Fall 2016 menswear. Left: Gents need a bespoke smoking slipper, too — Del Toro is on it. $455, at Studio Sebastian, deltoroshoes.com. SHAWN BRACKBILL Scottish artist Jessica Harrison has given your grandmother's figurines an update in her "Painted Lady "series. Each unique work is made by hand- painting found mass-produced ceramic figurines. Painted Lady 10, 2014, and Painted Lady 3, 2014. Limited-edition photographs £75, at jessicaharrison.co.uk. The ever-stylish George Cameron Nash showroom monograms its moving blankets — as if getting a delivery from this place weren't chic enough already. The intersection of marquee emblems of two subcultures of style: prep (monograms) and punk (tattoos), has become the new normal. Both symbols have rich, storied histories rooted in personalization and self-branding. While monograms have gone subversive at D&G and Maison Margiela, tats appear on the runways of Comme des Garçons and Alexander McQueen. And here, the twain shall meet. By Anne Lee Phillips and Michelle Aviña Sarah Burton incorporated nautical tattoo motifs into the Alexander McQueen Spring 2016 men's collection. Evoke a swirled tattoo with a black lace Jimmy Choo Flyte lace-and-suede sandal $925, at Jimmy Choo, Neiman Marcus, Stanley Korshak. Mary Katrantzou Initials, a limited-edition series of 26 unique coated-canvas tote bags, each bearing an artful letter. $1,070, preorder at matchesfashion.com. Below right: This necklace from Jennifer Meyer is destined to be your next family heirloom. 18K gold diamond letter necklace $1,800, at Ylang 23. Below: RewardStyle's Amber Venz personalized her Hermès Kelly bag with leather letters, a chic collaboration from Anya Hindmarch and Charlotte Stockdale. Anya Hindmarch Capra stickers $55 each, at anyahindmarch.com. Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2015 rose tattoo dress, collection at Neiman Marcus. Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring/ Summer 2012 collection was tattoo inspired. Maria Black earrings upgrade an "H" with an avant-garde twirl. $120, at net-a-porter.com. Parker Thatch sleep mask for the red-eye to London. $48, at parkerthatch.com. Dallas lifestyle author Kimberly Schlegel Whitman loves monograms so much, she wrote the book on them. Monograms: For the Home (Gibbs Smith, $40). Lake Bell on the cover of New York's Fall 2013 issue in a faux tattoo designed by her tattoo- artist husband, Scott Campbell. One of Marc Jacobs' many Pop art–inspired tattoos by Williamsburg- based Scott Campbell is a cartoon version of the designer himself. Matt Groening did a portrait of the designer in a Simpsons episode, and Jacobs branded himself with it. Fans and fashion editors alike went crazy for Cara Delevingne's costume at the Met Gala. An edgy black Stella McCartney jumpsuit revealed her chest, neck and arms, which were covered in cherry blossoms, birds and Chinese fan tattoos, reflecting the Chinese Whispers theme. The faux tattoos took 11 hours and was the work of Keith "Bang Bang" McCurdy, who inked many of her real tattoos as well. Mary Katrantzou A clutch $3,300, at Neiman Marcus. Amber Venz's personalized Hermes Kelly bag