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beaches, and were overcome by the beauty of the Seljalandsfoss waterfall. Our last two days were reserved for adventures of a more relaxing nature — whale watching, shopping, and a spa day. Our excursion to find whales in the wild took flight on a speedboat, with a small worldly group of internationals. On an un- usually sunny day in Reykjavík, the suits that the guides made us wear seemed ridiculous, but they were a ridiculous necessity, as the wind was cold and the boat fast. We spotted whales, puffins, and porpoises — not bad for my first whale-watching trip. After a high-energy ride back to land, we had a warm lunch and wandered into local shops. I ended up with two perfect souvenirs: a beautiful poncho from Geyser, a boutique that specializes in wool clothing, and a ceramic egg made by the deceased Icelandic artist Kogga, whose daugh- ter now represents his work. The figures drawn on the egg's surface recall the country's Viking history — a fitting keepsake. Our final day in Iceland was spent at the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa about 45 minutes outside Reykjavík. Despite the 40-degree weather, we put on our swimsuits and ventured out. As far as the eye could see, a blanket of steam rose from milky-blue water, surrounded by black volcanic rock. We relaxed in the mineral-rich water, smeared silica masks on our faces, and visited the swim-up bar. We ordered one glass of Prosecco and one Icelandic beer from bartenders wearing parkas. I wondered to myself if this day could be any more perfect — and then I saw an elf. Hverfisgallerí Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral Gullfoss Waterfall Erin Cluley at Blue Lagoon Erin Cluley Hverfisgallerí Basalt lava flows 147