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Maison Margiela MM6 blue shirt $390, at kickpleat. com. Gucci platform sneaker $950 at the Gucci boutique, Forty Five Ten, Neiman Marcus, net-a- porter.com. Galeria Kurimanzatto T h e r e ' s n o better proof of the growing i n t e r n a t i o n a l fascination with Mexico City's history of modernist architecture than the long lines of visitors outside Casa Luis Barragán. Built by the iconic Mexican architect and Pritzker Prize winner himself, Barragán's home and studio — now a UNESCO World Heritage Site — in the working-class neighborhood of Tacubaya is a masterpiece. Its somber elegance is typical of a certain post-war Latin American sensibility driven by pure lines and a dramatic use of natural light and color. My preferred vision of Mexico City is less obvious than the loud and messy folk scenarios that we're quick to identify with Mexico. Hidden in the residential neighborhoods of Condesa, Roma, and Polanco, amidst contemporary galleries, trendy shops, and sophisticated modern restaurants, are architectural wonders and bold public sculptures. Mexico's enormous metropolis is set once again to lead the modern and contemporary aesthetic by drawing from its glorious mid- century past and investing in its new contemporary image. When visiting the DF, as the city is generally called, one cannot miss the grandeur of public architecture housing some of the best art collections on the continent. The city hosts a huge number of museums, so target your itinerary carefully, based on your interests. I always start at Museo Tamayo, as I love the building (designed by Teodoro González de León ), the location on the grand Paseo de la Reforma, and the poignant exhibition program. The secular cathedral of Mexico City is the Museo Nacional de Antropología. Designed in 1964 by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano, and Rafael Mijares Alcérreca, the auda- cious architecture radiates exhibition halls outward from a central courtyard, which is covered by a monumental concrete umbrella supported by a single pillar. The design defies the perils of this earthquake- prone region. Inside, the exhibits provide a journey through the millennial history of the land, from pre-Columbian artifacts through the customs and cultures of its people. Another temple of pride and legacy is the Museo Anahuacalli. Designed by Diego Rivera to house his extensive collection of pre- Hispanic pieces from almost every indigenous civilization of Mexico, the building evokes the shape of the ancient Teotihuacan pyramids, using local black volcanic stones and fusing Mayan and Aztec influences. The core central room, decorated with Rivera's murals, is the setting for contemporary exhibitions, while the front courtyard is often the mise en scène for glamorous events held during the ever- growing Zona Maco Art Fair. Launched in 2002 by Zélika García, Zona Maco Art Fair has developed into one of the most prominent platforms for the global contemporary art market to engage with artists, collectors, and institutions. Held every February, the fair features one of the best selections of international galleries, catering to a growing number of sophisticated buyers from South and North America and bypassing even Miami, which is seen as too commercial and less focused. Built in 2013, the Colección Jumex was designed by architect David Chipperfield to house the collection of juice- empire heir and art patron Eugenio López. The collection provides a visionary program of exhibitions, research projects, grants, and scholarships, making it a beacon of international contemporary art and practice. In anticipation of the completion of the new U.S. Embassy in Mexico City (designed by Davis Brody Bond), I joined the Foundation for Art and Preservation in Embassies in celebrating the gift of Roy Lichtenstein's monumental Greene Street Mural, 1983, to the building. During the New Deal era (1933 to 1943), the U.S. government administered programs that produced thousands of artworks for display in federal buildings across the country. The U.S. artistic community was inspired by the revitalization of large-scale public-art practice, which was then championed by Mexican artists in New York, including José Clemente Orozco, Diego Rivera, and David Alfaro Siqueiros. The Lichtenstein mural has found a new home and purpose — as an emissary of cultural diplomacy during a time of much needed constructive dialogue. EAT + SHOP Of course, it isn't always about the art. My favorite comida spot is Contramar in the Roma neighborhood. Although it's impossible to get a table at lunch rush hour (which, in Mexico, is around 3 or 4 pm), it helps if your friend is the grandson of a former Mexican president — who also happens to be the producer of Mal Mezcal. The sophisticated, modern interpretation of Mexican cuisine — tuna tostadas and tacos de pulpo are a must — is matched by a glamorous crowd of Chilangos (Mexico City residents) and attentive service. Contramar has a sister restaurant in Polanco — a residential neighborhood dotted with fashion and design shops — called Entremar, which has a very similar menu. Across the square from Entremar is a great contemporary Mexican design store, Onora, which stocks amazing gifts and finds. Around the corner, there's a great little shop for shoes and sunglasses, Romero+McPaul — two items you'll need in order to walk the sunny streets of the DF! Astrid & Gastón, my favorite Peruvian restaurant in Lima, has opened an elegant Mexico City location, and other amazing food experiences await at Pujol and Merotoro, which are perfect for dinner. During the day or late at night, it's always fun to stop for a bite in one of the many delicious taco stands, such as El Farolito, and drink a refreshing Michelada — Corona or Sol beer mixed with fresh lime juice. Buen provecho! PHOTOGRAPHY TONY SOLIS. ART DIRECTION MICHELLE AVIÑA. STYLIST DOUG VOISIN FOR INDEPENDENT ARTISTS AGENCY. ASSISTANT STYLIST NICOLE FALLIS FOR INDEPENDENT ARTISTS AGENCY. MODEL ANDREA CARRAZCO FOR NEW ICON, MEXICO CITY. MAKEUP ANA CRISTINA G DE V. HAIR CESAR VARGAS. EDITORIAL ASSISTANT MEGHAN WEST. FILIPPO TATTONI-MARCOZZI, PaperCity's European editor at large, zooms in on MEXICO CITY. 43