PaperCity Magazine

July/August 2017 - Dallas

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MEXICO PAPERCITY'S CREATIVE DIRECTOR MICHELLE AVIÑA AND DESIGN CONTRIBUTOR STEVEN HEMPEL HAVE SPENT MANY HOLIDAYS TRAWLING MEXICO CITY'S RICH LAYERS OF ART, ARCHITECTURE, FOOD, AND DESIGN. HERE, THEIR GUIDE TO THE BEST. 44 MUSEUMS Barragán houses and Capuchinas Convent. See page 46. Castillo de Chapultepec. Very interesting, Versailles-esque, and overdone, on a hill with expansive views. castillodechapultepec. inah.gob.mx. El Museo del Chopo. Fantastic contemporary art exhibitions housed in a renovated Victorian train shed. On Saturdays, visit the nearby Mercado del Chopo, which is DF's punk and hardcore market — great for people watching. chopo.unam.mx. MUAC. A contemporary art museum inside the UNAM campus. There's a pleasant little botanical garden nearby. muac.unam.mx. Museo Anahuacalli. Houses Diego Rivera's collection of pre- Hispanic objects in a monolithic rock pyramid partly designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. museoanahuacalli.org.mx. Museo Estudio Diego Rivera. estudiodiegorivera. b e l l a s a r t e s . g o b . m x . Museo Franz Mayer. This downtown museum is full of crazy colonial furniture and art, along with a lot of Rococo Catholic pieces. franzmayer. org.mx. Museo Frida Kahlo. Best known as La Casa Azul. m u s e o f r i d a k a h l o . o r g . m x Museo Jumex. Opened by art collector/fruit-juice heir Eugenio López, the building is a Chipperfield-designed gem. fundacionjumex.org/en. Museo Nacional de Arte (MUNA). Don't miss the strange little torture museum in front of MUNA; next door, they have meteorites on display! munal.mx. Museo Soumaya. Designed by architect Fernando Romero. Go to see one of the most futuristic buildings on the planet. Museo Tamayo. This museum was recently renovated and has expanded. An amazing building with i m p o r t a n t artworks, as well as one of the best m u s e u m shops in the c o u n t r y . m u s e o t a m a y o . o r g . Museo Templo Mayor. Attached to the Templo Mayor ruins downtown, this museum is home to a stellar collection. templomayor.inah.gob.mx. Museum of Geology. This small, very Victorian museum is in Santa María la Ribera, in front of a very pretty park. geologia. unam.mx N a t i o n a l M u s e u m o f Anthropology. One of t h e l a r g e s t a n d m o s t important collections of pre- Colombian work, set in an expansive modernist building. One can easily spend the entire day here. mna.inah.gob.mx. Palacio de Bellas Artes. The building itself is worth a visit: Art Nouveau outside with an Art Deco interior. Important art, architecture, and photography shows. palacio.bellasartes. gob.mx. CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERIES House Of Gaga. houseof gaga.com. Kurimanzutto. kurimanzutto. com. Labor. labor.org.mx/en. MARSO. marso.com.mx. OMR. galeriaomr.com. P r o y e c t o s M o n c l o v a . proyectosmonclova.com/en. Salón ACME. Great shows in a cool space. salonacme.org. Yautepec, More hipster; the owner organizes Material Art Fair. yau.com.mx. SITES Espacio Escultórico. cultura. unam.mx. M exico City is a city of contrasts. Ancient, cosmopolitan, beautiful, polluted. It's a city of layers with a convergence of culture, commerce, and history that make it one of the most dynamic places in the world. As an outsider, you're first struck by its size. As you circle for a night landing, an otherworldly stretch of city lights illuminates the valley as far as the eye can see. Once afoot, the city is awash in vibrant color. People come to Mexico City to see what we've seen — a city that pulsates with energy. The oldest city in the Americas is a land of celebrated architects and artists, and one whose galleries and cuisine rival any in Europe. Our visit focuses on the neighbor- hoods of Roma, Condesa, and San Ángel — a tour of the places we love. These are uniquely Chilango and will leave you with a deeper appreciation of the nuances and depths of this global culture capital. CITY ON FIRE ART ARCHITECTURE FOOD DESIGN Museo Tamayo Hotel Downtown Teotihuacan Palacio de Bellas Artes

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