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74 WHERE TO EAT THE FAMED OPENS IN THE GALLERIA NOBU BY LAURANN CLARIDGE PHOTOGRAPHY PETER MOLICK AND HENRY HARGREAVES M ore than 13 years after its debut in Dallas, Houston finally has a Nobu of its own. For adoring diners who have traveled the globe, reserving tables at the sophisticated Japanese eatery from London to Tokyo, Los Angeles to Moscow, its Uptown advent could not have happened soon enough. The concept was created by superstar chef Nobu Matsuhisa and his partners, Robert DeNiro and Meir Teper; now there are more than 30 locations around the world — and several Nobu-branded hotels as well. At the new Galleria location, ascend the split staircase at dinner hour to check in. The design was inspired by Nobu's light-filled location in Malibu — all that's missing is a view of the Pacific. GM Gordon Gilbert and executive chef Carl Murray came from Dallas, where they opened and ran that city's Nobu for 13 ½ years. Nobu's seasonal offerings are split between cold and hot and what they dub Nobu Classics and Nobu Now, the latter a tasteful evolution of Mr. Matsuhisa's menu over the decades tinged with ingredients derived from his travels. Start with a cocktail such as the Yuzu Kumquat Cooler, a mojito-inspired take on vodka with fresh kumquats and mint, monkfruit, and lemonade, or my favorite, the Momoko Chan Cordial made with the purée of the Japanese mountain peach, shaken with lemon juice and topped with champagne. Nobu devotees will recognize the much-imitated dishes that Matsuhisa originated, from miso-marinated black cod ($38) to rock shrimp cloaked in spicy mayonnaise ($26). But we urge you to break out and try the red snapper sashimi, each slice marinated in sake and salt, drizzled with yuzu (citrus) juice and olive oil, then coated with dried red and white miso ($27). Move on to seared salmon with karashi su miso napped with a sweet mustard blended with mountain peach purée and momoko chan ($27). The king crab tempura with amazu ponzu sauce poured atop tableside is crisp and light; credit the finely milled Japanese potato starch in the batter for its lightness ($28). For those who wish to put themselves in the hands of Murray or his talented sushi chef, Ejii Saito, a chef's choice omakase is available ($175), as is the Nobu signature tasting menu ($125). Dessert brings an edited selection of sweet endings, including a bento box filled with pristine fresh berries, a scoop of matcha-flavored gelato and a warm chocolate fondant cake made with the French couverture, Valrhona ($16). Nobu is open every day. Reservations strongly recommended. Nobu Houston, 5115 Westheimer 832.987.2599, noburestaurants.com. Nobu Houston bar Crispy rice with spicy tuna