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76 WHERE TO EAT IT'S ALL IN A BY LAURANN CLARIDGE R e s t a u r a t e u r I a n Tucker is prepared for mispronunciations when it comes to the n a m e o f h i s n e w eatery, Poitin. In fact, he's even spelled it out phonetically on the menu: PUUT-cheen. It's also the name of a centuries-old distilled beverage akin to Irish moonshine — a bracing elixir that's blended into cocktails at this Sawyer Yards eatery, just off Washington Avenue. Tucker is a 16-year veteran of the restaurant business back in his native Dublin, where he and a partner ran two locations of The Exchequer and won accolades for their cocktail program. After a whirlwind romance with a Texas girl who called Houston home, Tucker came to town, opening Balls Out Burger in the Heights last year before conceptualizing this ambitious, nearly 10,000-square- foot restaurant that refl ects the global cuisine represented by the immigrant cultures of Houston — including his own. The industrial shell was conjured by Studio Red, with fi nishing touches by designer Erin Hicks. While the cuisine is worldly, chef Dominick Lee (former Kiran's sous chef) aims to support our local economy and the purveyors in it while dazzling us with approachable, elegantly thoughtful dishes. Take a seat in a cozy dining nook inside, or soak in the stunning skyline view from the patio. Start with a complex hunk of dark rye brioche ($6) with a side of whipped turnip butter, both made in house (the latter with Kerrygold butter). Then take on a dozen raw or char-grilled Gulf oysters ($16/$22) or the playful seafood charcuterie board, a chef's selection of four to six fi sh varieties ($25). Don't miss the house hummus — a creamy concoction drizzled with parsley oil, with a rich braised-lamb- neck "crumble," toasted bread, and NAME baby vegetables, the tender leaves still intact ($8). Pick Ya Flavor pork skins come with your choice of three fl avor toppings — we tried Cajun, as the chef calls Louisiana home ($6). Order a beer or a crisp white wine to go-with; Poitin's wine list features 125 boutique selections, with no bottle priced over $60. Mains include a hearty skillet-braised caulifl ower steak with chipotle aioli ($22) and the chef's choice fi sh — in our case, it was Antarctica wild salmon with a coconut-milk crispy rice and ginger scallion salad ($28). Breads and desserts are prepared by Dory Fun, who served as pastry chef at Yauatcha Houston before bringing her edible architectural assemblages across town. Poitin is open dinner; lunch and brunch will follow soon. Poitin, 2313 Edwards St. in Sawyer Yards, 713.470.6686, poitinhouston.com. PHOTOGRAPHY TREVOR GERLAND Ian Tucker Braised lamb neck at Poitin.