Issue link: http://papercitymagazine.uberflip.com/i/996851
78 S ix years ago, chef Chris Shepherd created quite a stir when he opened his first restaurant, Underbelly. Loyal fans lauded his culinary i n g e n u i t y, which derived f r o m s e l f - imposed mandates to source only ingredients from within a 150-mile radius and to utilize the entire animal, nose to tail, for his continuously changing menu inspired by the cuisines of Houston's immigrant communities. Today, Shepherd's mission evolves with UB Preserv. The 80-seat dinner-and- brunch spot on lower Westheimer honors the next immigrant generation that settled here and removes the rules of Shepherd's past, creating worldly cuisine without limits. The intimate space has dark wood walls and floors and walnut tables repurposed from the original Underbelly location — the latter, placed in close proximity to encourage conversation among diners seated at the long communal table or waiting on the patio for their name to be called as they munch gratis snacks such as pork cracklins dusted with pimento-cheese powder. Cocktails are a fun tease, from Peach, Please! (with a gummy peach on the rim) to the Time Warp (bourbon, pear, hibiscus, and probiotic yogurt). Wine director Matthew Pridgen has assembled a wine list with something for every taste. Shepherd and chef de cuisine Nick Wong, late of Momofuku Ssam Bar in NYC, entice with sharable plates such as the crispy rice salad; short-grain rice is coated with rice flour, then flash-fried and tossed with fresh herbs, BY LAURANN CLARIDGE CULINARY INGENUITY PRESERVED cucumbers, tomatoes, and Serrano vinaigrette ($12). Forget about chilled seafood towers; here, there's a hot seafood tower of power, served in a bamboo steamer, with four layers: king crab, roasted oysters in Valentina hot-sauce- spiked butter, steamed singing pink scallops, and nuoc mam marinated Gulf shrimp ($85). It's served with a trio of dipping sauces including spicy calamansi, a nod to the chef's obsession with this obscure sour citrus fruit. The carpaccio of 12-year- old Pineywoods heritage steer is a complex slice of beef drizzled with Vietnamese-inspired pho oil ($20). Don't miss the reimagining of crawfish and noodles, where thin sheets of rice-paper noodles are fried then layered with butter, garlic, and creole-seasoned crawfish ($24). Big, bolder dishes are perfect for sharing, such as whole roasted snapper ($54), Tejas heritage crispy chicken ($68), and Vietnamese short-rib fajitas ($65). Pastry director Victoria Dearmond offers four desserts, including a Thai tea float with house-made fortune cookie ($8) and ca phe sue da carrot cake with pineapple and pecans ($10). Open Tuesday to Saturday for dinner, with dim sum-style brunch served 11 am to 4 pm Sunday; no reservations are accepted. UB Preserv, 1609 Westheimer Road, ubpreserv.com. PHOTOGRAPHY JULIE SOEFER Chris Shepherd Crispy pork ribs at UB Preserv Wild Man of Navidad cocktail